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What We’re Cooking: Cardamom Delights

Cardamom Milk Pudding

Cardamom is precious: one of the three most expensive spices by weight, along with saffron and vanilla. Its aroma is distinct, yet hard to describe. It’s a little bit spicy, a touch citrusy, a slight bit sweet and anise-like—maybe. In concert with fellow warming spices cinnamon or nutmeg, it smells like Christmas to me, especially when brewed in Spiced Milk Tea. You’ll want to wrap your hands around a steaming glass, bend your head and drink in the intoxicating scent before taking a sip. A lactose-free version, just as heady, can be made with soy or almond milk.

Indigenous to India and popular in Scandinavia, cardamom may be yellow-green, white, or brown. The seeds can be separated from the pods; both components are assertive enough to flavor a braise. You can get the seeds pre-ground, which is what you’ll want if Cardamom Sour-Cream Waffles suit your fancy, but act fast. The seed loses its flavor much faster once liberated from the protective pod. Try the waffles for breakfast with tart fruit preserves, like lingonberry, as homage to Sweden.

This week I’m most excited to revisit Paul Grimes’s bold Lamb Spice Rub, featuring white cardamom pods toasted in a dry skillet. Coriander, cumin, yellow mustard, salt, ginger, hot pepper flakes and nutmeg round out a complex crew, creating the perfect complement to lean meat. And, of course, there’ll be cardamom for dessert. The ingredient is front and center in Cardamom Milk Pudding (above), a silken five-ingredient variation on muhallebi, a Middle Eastern delicacy.

What’s your favorite way to use cardamom?

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What We’re Cooking: Mother’s Day Breakfast in Bed

Yogurt Sundae

When I was a child, every Mother’s Day I would wake up before dawn and whip up a “surprise” breakfast in bed for my mom. This proved challenging since I had to make breakfast in such a hurry before she was lured awake by tantalizing smells from the kitchen. I remember several years where I had to order Mom back to bed just so I could bring up her a perfectly set tray. At first the tray only featured a bowl of cereal, but then I quickly moved onward and upward to eggs, toast, and pancakes.

This year when my mom visits, I’m making a special brunch in her honor. I’m starting with her favorite: waffles.  I’m choosing to make Cardamom Sour-Cream Waffles topped with generous spoonfuls of lingonberry preserves and dusted with confectioners’ sugar. Then I’m turning to something savory and substantial with Kemp’s Eggs on Toast with Dandelion Greens, which is the perfect rendition of the classic eggs on toast I used to make for Mom. I’m finishing Mother’s Day brunch with a “dessert” of Cherry-Apricot Yogurt Sundaes, in which cool, creamy Greek yogurt is topped with a fragrant cherry and apricot syrup.

What’s your favorite Mother’s Day breakfast?

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