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My Favorite Sweet Onion: The Ailsa Craig

Ailsa Craig Onion

Photo: Kemp Minifie

Ever heard of the Ailsa Craig onion? “It’s the only raw onion I can eat,” declared Jim Grillo, owner of Northshire Farms, as he stood in front of a box of big globe-shaped orbs at his stand at New York City’s Union Square Greenmarket. With those words, I immediately bought a couple with the vision of a thick slice of sweet onion nestled in a generous slick of mayonnaise on a piece of crusty bread for lunch. That was about four years ago. It made the best onion sandwich ever, so I’ve been buying bagsful of Ailsa Craigs from Grillo ever since.

Last week, as I was loading my cart with more onions, I wondered aloud about the  name. The question launched Grillo into one of those only-in-New-York stories.

Three years ago, a young fellow, about 19 to 20 years old, came up to the stand, and then immediately dropped down to the ground in front of the table. Grillo thought he might be having some sort of seizure, but the guy quickly pulled out a camera. “He starts taking pictures of himself gyrating around, smiling, in different positions pointing to the sign,” said Grillo. “He was crazy like.” When Grillo asked him what was going on, the fellow replied in a Scottish brogue, “I come from there! I live there! It’s an island off the coast of Scotland.” Grillo quickly solved the Scot’s problem. Grillo handed the fellow an onion, positioned him next to the sign, and snapped the picture for him. Continue reading

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Now In the Store: All Things Onion

All Things Onion

Add a punch of oniony flavor to breakfast, lunch, or dinner with recipes from our All Things Onion collection, now available in the Gourmet Live Store.

Spruce up your side dish spread with a big bowl of Green Beans with Red Onion and Mustard Seed Vinaigrette, and then move on to the main event with a quick and easy recipe for Spaghetti with Smoky Tomatoes and Onions. If you’re looking to add a kick of fiery heat to any meal, turn to our fresh Jalapeño and Onion Sauté for a double dose of veggies with a hint of spice.

Download the free Gourmet Live app then head to the Library to access the Store for our All Things Onion collection.

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Will The Real Baby Carrot Please Stand Up

Carrot Photo 1

Photo: Kemp Minifie

What’s up with baby carrots? A recipe I tested recently called for them, but the author advised specifically against the “precut variety.” You know the ones. They’re dipped by the millions into ranch dressing. As I cruised the produce aisles of my local supermarket, it was clear that baby carrots are very confusing. Here’s what I found:

Bagged Baby Carrots (top in photo): sometimes called precut or “baby-cut” carrots, they are actually adult carrots, cut into 2-inch sections, and then abraded by machines to peel them. The carrots used have been bred for sweetness, a consistent orange color to the core, and uniform length and thickness. They’ve dramatically increased the tonnage of carrots consumed in this country.

Baby Carrots or Mini-Carottes (from Southern Specialties, Inc. in Florida, second from the top in photo): Described as hand-peeled carrots, they are about 4-inches long, with about 1 1/2 inches of stubby green stems attached. They look dried out. Call them prepubescent.

Bunch Carrots (third from top): These non-organic carrots with their bushy tops,  gathered into bunches, were definitely skinny this weekend. Compared to the “bunch carrots” sold later in the season, I’d call them “tweens.”

Organic Bunch Carrots: (second from bottom): These are a bit thicker than the “tweens” above. They’re full-fledged adolescents. This is what the author used.

Regular Cello Carrots (bottom):  I’ve included full-grown carrots for comparison purposes. Cello refers to the cellophane bags first used to pack them. Many foodie friends swear by these carrots for cooking, insisting they have more flavor than the bunched, and I tend to agree.

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Five Reasons to Start Braising Your Veggies

Braised Carrots Photo

I used to be solidly in the roasted vegetable camp. I’d crank up the oven and blast my veggies to candy-like sweetness. But there’s a lot to be said for braising vegetables, too. If author Molly Stevens doesn’t convince you in her Eight Essential Braising Tips in this week’s Gourmet Live, here are five more reasons to braise vegetables.

Economy: Roasted vegetables shrink substantially, so you’ll need to start out with more, at least 11/2 times as much. You’re concentrating the flavor, but you’re also losing water your body needs.

Speed: The dry heat of an oven takes longer to tenderize than the moist heat of a braise. Compare 30 to 40 minutes for cauliflower florets in a hot oven versus 5 to 10 minutes on top of the stove!

Energy Efficiency: Add up the time it takes to preheat the oven to the upper reaches of hot and then roast those veggies, and you’ve used a lot of energy. With braising, you’ll spend significantly less time over a single burner on the stovetop.

Great Flavor: Steaming and boiling—your other top-of-the-stove choices—are boring. They can’t give you the flavor you get from a braise. The fact that you can brown your veggies and cook them in moist heat gives you the taste you crave without the shrinkage.

Sublime Texture: Vegetables with dense fiber, such as carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas, need the moist heat of a braise to get to meltingly tender. Just watch out that they don’t turn to mush.

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Cold Weather Crops

Cauliflower

Photo: Gourmet

Winter time is not just a wonderland of snow, but of fresh fruits and vegetables too. With cold weather bounties of kale, clementines, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, pears, fennel, persimmons, and beets, winter has plenty of produce to offer.

What’s your favorite winter food?

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The Best and Biggest Butternut Squash

Best Butternut Squash

Photo: Kemp Minifie

Do you believe the size of this butternut squash? The neck alone is 10 inches long and 4 ½ inches wide, and it’s all solid squash flesh. Compare it to butternuts that have thinner necks and wider bottoms and it’s obvious this is a much better deal. And that’s an important consideration with Thanksgiving right around the corner, and produce prices higher in general.

I discovered my ginormous butternut at Jim Grillo’s Northshire Farms stand at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City. It’s from an Italian seed labeled zucca rugosa, or wrinkled squash, so called because the skin between the ribs often appears wrinkled. Grillo’s aren’t so much. “I don’t know why other farmers don’t try the rugosa,” Grillo said. “It’s easier to grow than the hybrid butternuts and it holds up well in my root cellar.” Continue reading

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Now In the Store: Awesome Apples

Awesome Apples

Celebrate one of fall’s freshest fruits with seven standout recipes from our Awesome Apples collection, now available in the Gourmet Live Store.

Slice into the ultimate combination of sweet and savory flavors with Apple Pie with Cheddar Crust or keep it cool and refreshing with Celery Apple Granita. And for the ultimate in individual indulgences, assemble towers of fresh flavor with Dried-Apple Stack Cakes.

Download the free Gourmet Live app then head to the Library to access the Store for our Awesome Apples collection.
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Nutrient-Rich Broccoli Leaves

Broccoli Leaves

Photo: Kemp Minifie

“Eat your greens!” is the nutritionists’ mantra these days, and certainly supermarkets stock a bigger variety of dark leafy greens than they used to: Collards, kale, Swiss chard, and mustard greens are the most often seen ones. But there’s another nutrient-packed green out there just waiting for a savvy marketer, broccoli leaves.

I’m not talking about the few small leaves clinging to the stems of broccoli bunches in the store. I’m referring to the big leaves that grow like protection around the flower heads. Unless you grow your own broccoli or you frequent farmers’ stands where practically the whole plant is harvested and brought to market, you wouldn’t know about them. If you haven’t seen them at your farmers’ market, ask whoever sells broccoli to bring along the leaves in the future.

Broccoli leaves are a more potent source of beta-carotene than the stalks or the florets, and they pack a punch of vitamin A. Cook them like any other green. I like to thinly slice them crosswise, including the stem, and stir-fry them with some chopped garlic and a few hot pepper flakes in olive oil in a large heavy skillet for 1 to 2 minutes, until they are bright green and beginning to wilt. Tongs are helpful for stirring the shredded leaves. Add about 1/3 cup of water, then cover the skillet and steam-cook the greens until they’re tender, stirring occasionally, and adding more water as needed to keep them moist, about 5 to 7 minutes. You won’t believe how delicious they are.

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Image of the Day: Sausage-Stuffed Squash

Squash

Winter squash is the perfect way to give your next fall meal a hearty upgrade. The best part about this autumn gourd is that you can eat the whole thing (save for the stem of course), and its thick skin gives it a sturdy shape making it ultra-versatile. Gen Y Foodie stuffs her sweet dumpling squash with chicken sausage sautéed with carrots, celery, and onions, and mixed with breadcrumbs and Parmesan. This meal-in-a-bowl is as delicious as it is colorful.

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Summer Produce Favorites

Grilled Tomatoes

Photo: CN Digital Studio

With fall creeping in, the time for fresh zucchini, watermelon, peaches, and blueberries is nearly gone. We’re enjoying all the juicy tomatoes we can before they’re gone for the season, but we want you to tell us:

Which summer food will you miss the most?

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Kemp’s Kitchen: Deep Into Freezing

The full-length feature version of Deep Into Freezing by Kemp Minifie appears in the current issue of Gourmet Live and onlineDownload the free Gourmet Live app for this story and more.

Kemp's Kitchen: Deep Into Freezing

Photo: Paul Poplis/Getty Images

 Are thawed roasted tomatoes really as good as freshly made ones? In all honesty, no. Frozen fruits and vegetables can never match the best locally grown produce when it’s at its peak, but on a cold rainy night in December, I’m more forgiving of such shortcomings. I just yearn for that flavor reminder of summer—and, yes, even the season’s heat waves—to help me endure winter’s chill. When preparing roasted tomatoes for freezing, be sure to stick with meaty plum tomatoes, and let them cook for the full eight hours. Pack them densely in freezer–grade airtight containers of plastic or glass. Pour off and save any liquid for a soup or sauce, then cover them with olive oil. Thaw slowly in the fridge.

Gourmet Live‘s resident ingredient guru Kemp Minifie contends that the freezer’s the place to stash summer’s bounty. Get all of her tips and tricks for stretching the season’s produce by reading the full-length version of Kemp’s Kitchen: Deep Into Freezing, and then download the free Gourmet Live app for recipes and more.

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08.31.11: Labor Daze

Labor Daze

The latest issue of Gourmet Live is stretching the summer spirit and offering a serving of comfort amidst the impact of Hurricane Irene. Our resident ingredient guru Kemp Minifie shares her tips and tricks for preserving the season’s bounty (hint: freezing is cooler than canning). And guest columnist Garrett McCord shows us the true meaning of a “labor of love” this holiday weekend, as he tries to convert a moldy-cheese hater into a blue cheese lover.

It’s then time to hit the road for this month’s Gourmet Live & BlogHer Road Trip, which is bringing you the local’s guide to Chicago’s best pizza, hot dogs, pork chops, and more. We also make a stop at Penn State’s ice cream university for a candid chat with the program’s director, Dr. Robert F. Roberts. Gear up for a festive Labor Day with our Top 10 entertaining tips, and discover how design critic and guest columnist Alexandra Lange fell in love with the perfect fork.

You’ll find all of these stories and more in the latest issue of Gourmet Live. And now we’re dishing out three times the App Exclusive content, so check out three full-length features from this week’s issue:
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Kemp’s Kitchen: Chill Out with Herb-Infused Ice Cubes

Cilantro Ice Cubes

Photo: Kemp Minifie, via iPhone

It’s easy to overbuy at the farmers’ market at this time of year. My nose and my eyes overrule the rational side of my brain. Fresh herbs, in particular, are my biggest weakness. Each one beckons with its intoxicating aroma, and I can’t resist buying more than I really need. What to do when I realize I’m not going to be able to use up the whole bunch before it rots? Chop it up and freeze it in ice cubes!

I got the idea from Ian Hemphill, author of The Spice and Herb Bible. I met Hemphill a decade ago in Sydney, Australia, where he has a shop called Herbie’s Spices. This is a fellow who’s more passionate about herbs and spices than anyone I’ve ever met. In his chapter on coriander (cilantro, in this case), he recommends “prolonging the enjoyment” of the fresh herb by chopping the leaves and stems, packing them in ice cube trays, then filling the trays with water and freezing them.

Continue reading
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Image of the Day: Beetroot, Zucchini & Apple Salad

Apple_beetroot_zucchini

Green Kitchen Stories’ earthy and delicious Beetroot, Zucchini & Apple Salad, topped with macadamia nuts, Queso Manchego, and herb and mustard dressing, is the perfect end-of-summer salad. Marinated, grilled zucchini contrasts with raw beets and apples, giving this healthy creation a great textural contrast.

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A Summertime Bounty in Southwestern France

The full-length feature version of A Summertime Bounty in Southwestern France by Sara Bonisteel appears in the current issue of Gourmet LiveDownload the free Gourmet Live app for this story and more.

France Farmers Market Radishes

French breakfast radishes, with their slender red roots tipped with white, have a mild peppery flavor that pairs perfectly with fresh sweet cream butter and a couple of grains of coarse sea salt for an appetizer or bar snack, which is how I first learned to eat them Stateside, at a gastropub in Brooklyn. In the Dordogne, we sliced them in chunks for our salad, served with a homemade Dijon vinaigrette.

Gourmet Live guest columnist Sara Bonisteel snaps and samples her way through France’s Le Bugue on the Dordogne’s gorgeous, gluttony-inspiring farmers’ market while making stops for radishes, cheese, sour cherries, eggs, and more.

Download the free Gourmet Live app for the full story and more.

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A Corny Story

The full-length feature version of A Corn Story by Kristin Kimball appears in the current issue of Gourmet LiveDownload the free Gourmet Live app for this story and more.

Corn

Photo: Francesca Yorke/Getty Images

I’m thinking about that as I choose my ears for dinner. In summer’s decline, I crave ears that are as mature as the season feels now, the kind of corn you find for sale on a street corner in Chiapas: ears with hulking kernels that I can sink my teeth into, with a complex corn character. Most farmers here grow the corn that American tastes demand, the extra–sugary hybrid varieties with kernels that pop off into your mouth when you bite. When picked at just the right stage, and eaten very fresh, I guess they deserve their celebrity. But as soon as their sweetness begins to fade, I find there’s nothing to back it up. These modern varieties have gained extra Brix points—the standard measure for sugar content—but lost their substance, the nourishing, nutty depth that makes corn more than a vehicle for salt and butter.

Gourmet Live guest columnist, and New York farmer extraordinaire, Kristin Kimball sings the praises of the controversial yet delectable over-grown grass, and darling of farmers’ markets across the country, corn.

Download the free Gourmet Live app for the full story and more.


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Weekly Roundup: Farm Stand Favorites

Eggplant

In honor of the dwindling days of summer, this week’s roundup features a few recipes for farm stand favorites that take full advantage of the warm weather smorgasbord still available at local farmers’ markets. From Kale and Honeydew Summer Salad to Graffiti Eggplant with White Bean, Lemon and Basil Spread, each delectable dish is healthy, fresh, and full of season flavor.
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App Exclusive: Where the Chefs Shop

The below full-length feature version of Where the Chefs Shop by Nanette Maxim appears in the current issue of Gourmet LiveDownload the free Gourmet Live app for this story and more.

Farmers' Markets

Photo: Courtesy of Center for Urban Education for Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA)

Former Gourmet magazine senior features editor Nanette Maxim asked toques from around the country to share the inside scoop on their favorite farmers’ markets.

Boston

Chef Barbara Lynch (whose Italian– and French–inspired Menton was nominated for Best New Restaurant of 2010 by the James Beard Foundation) says she puts a cooler in her car and heads to Boston’s Copley Square Market on Tuesdays and Fridays. “I always go to Chris Kurth and Ana Sortun’s Siena Farms,” Lynch says, “for peppery arugula, and crinkly cress—perfect with just a little olive oil—as well as beets and candy turnips, which are great shaved and eaten raw. I make a big harvest salad with beets, broccoli raab, kohlrabi, and sugar snap peas. And I’m a huge dehydrator…everything from garlic scapes to baby squash and peppers—nothing goes to waste.”

Lynch also hits the Harvard Square Market, for Grateful Farm’s organic braising greens, such as hardy and extremely tender Russian kale, herbs, and autumn’s squash, potatoes, and onions.

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08.17.11: Market Watch

The latest issue of Gourmet Live takes an in-depth look at farmers’ markets across the globe. Guest columnist Nanette Maxim takes us straight to the source as chefs from around the country share the inside scoop on their favorite farmers’ markets. From Paul Kahan to Katharine Kagel, grab a seat at the table with the top toques and discover the destinations for the freshest fruits and vegetables. The list of hotposts will come in handy as you head into the kitchen with a primer on fresh and dry herbs from chef instructor Sabrina Sexton of The Institute of Culinary Education.

Then it’s time to dig in to a visual feast as Sara Bonisteel shares gluttony-inspiring farmers’ market photos from her recent trip to France. And what better way to celebrate summer’s peak produce than with Kristin Kimball’s ode to all things corn. The farmer and author gushes about her flagship crop, calling it “one kick–ass plant.” Our tour of the market scene is capped off with Jane Lear’s candid conversation with New York’s original locavore chef, Peter Hoffman.

Find all of these stories and more in the latest issue of Gourmet Live, and as always, stay tuned to the blog for App Exclusive content and the latest updates. And don’t forget to check out the Store for brand new menus, including our Crazy for Corn collection and more.

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