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Winter Greens

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

No need to pack on the pounds this holiday season. Along with the cold weather, winter brings along a stunning array of leafy greens. With options like to escarole, Swiss chard, beet greens, sorrel, cabbage, mustard greens, chicory, dandelion greens, Brussels sprouts, kale, collard greens, cress, spinach, tat soi, and turnip greens, there are endless options of nutrient-rich, delicious veggies to help keep you eating healthy through the holidays.

What is your favorite winter green?

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Get To Know The Shiny New Collard: Cascade Glaze

Collards

Photo: Kemp Minifie

Getting a bit tired of kale? Then get into collards! Kale may be the “it” green of the moment, but collards are right behind them, ready to grab the spotlight. They’re both members of the brassica family, that super-healthy group of plants that include broccoli and cabbage. Collards are distinctive for producing large flat leaves that get so big, Adam and Eve would have found them quite useful.

I’m excited about a glossy new collard that’s beginning to appear at farmers markets. The Cascade Glaze Collard is distinctive because the leaves look as though they’ve been polished to a shine with beeswax. It’s unmistakable at the top in the photograph above, and bunches of them really stand out in farmers markets when piled next to regular collards, one leaf of which is in the lower half of the photograph above.

According to Uprising Seeds, the Cascade Glaze Collard may be new to gardeners and growers, but it’s actually an almost 200-year old variety that was resurrected and improved upon by three noteworthy plant breeders: Alan Kapuler, Carol Deppe, and Jeff McCormack. Dr. Kapuler is the co-founder of Seeds of Change and the president of Peace Seeds, a self-described planetary genome pool service, while Carol Deppe, another biologist, is a freelance plant breeder and author of The Resilient Gardener: Food Production and Self-Reliance in Uncertain Times. Jeff McCormack is the founder and previous owner of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange.

Although many of us associate collards as the slow-cooked greens of the South, collards can be cooked quickly, in three to four minutes, the way they do it in Brazil. Just roll up the leaves like a cigar, and thinly slice them into fine shreds, then toss them in a hot skillet with olive oil, garlic, or bacon.

This video of how to do it shows me removing the center rib, but these days, I’ve stopped doing that. The stem is not only edible, it also provides a welcome textural contrast to the leaves. And Cascade Glaze Collard stems are particularly juicy. Just roll up the leaves parallel with the rib, and start slicing. I cooked up a bunch last night for dinner, and we loved them. They were sweeter than regular collards, and who’s going to complain about that?

Posted in Kemp's Kitchen | Tagged , , , , |

Late Summer + Early Fall Produce = Fabulous Food

Butternut Squash

Photo: Condé Nast Archives

Gourmet Live’s Fall Harvest issue coincides with the juxtaposition of the last of the summer’s corn and tomatoes, alongside the winter squashes and dark leafy greens at farmers markets in many parts of the country. Actually, the greens have been around most of the summer, but they’re at their sweetest best as the weather cools and the first couple of frosts nip the air.

During the dog days of July and August, we automatically pair corn with zucchini and other summer squash, but as the daylight shortens in September and October, fresh corn becomes more appealing in squash soups and hearty chowders. One of my favorite soups is a purée of calabaza or kabocha squash (you can even use butternut squash) and coconut milk, topped with a corn relish spiked with lime juice and cilantro. Our cheesy corn chowder is a colorful hodgepodge of late summer and fall vegetables, all cut in small dice to match the size of corn kernels.

Then again, there’s minestrone, that Italian staple that joins the last of the zucchini, green beans, and tomatoes (feel free to substitute fresh for the canned in this recipe), along with the heartier members of the fall garden: kale, cabbage, carrots, and potatoes. My family pasta standby, kale, caramelized onions, and lentils tossed with penne, gets extra color and juiciness at this time of year with the addition of pan-roasted cherry tomatoes. For a real knockout fall main course, try our kale, butternut squash and pancetta phyllo pie. Doesn’t everything looks better wrapped in phyllo?

So grab the gusto and embrace this transitional time of year when the best of two seasons of produce are just waiting to be tossed together in your kitchen. Who knows, your ingenuity coupled with their flavors could result in an exciting new harvest creation. Whatever you’re concocting, we’d love to know about it!

Posted in Kemp's Kitchen | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Get To Know The New Kale: Spigarello Broccoli

spigarello broccoli

Photo: Kemp Minifie

There’s a new kid on the block in the ever-expanding greens department: Spigarello broccoli. It originally hails from southern Italy, particularly around Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot. The long, smooth, skinny, dark green leaves can be curly or flat depending on the variety.

I bought my spigarelllo from Rick Bishop’s Mountain Sweet Berry Farm, which operates a hugely popular stand at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City—a line forms as early as 7:30 am on Saturday mornings—and it also supplies specialty produce to many high-end restaurants in the city. Bishop credits chef Michael White of Marea, one of the restaurants in White’s Altamarea Group, for asking him to grow spigarello.

It’s a non-heading broccoli, says Chris Field, a chef and apprentice farmer to Bishop. Bishop get’s his seeds from Seeds of Italy, the American distributor of Italy’s venerable Franchi Seeds. Although Bishop orders the flat leaf, Field speculates that the varieties of spigarello (spigariello in Italy) get unintentionally mixed. “You walk a row and every four or five plants will be curly, curly, curly, and then there’ll be a broad leaf,” explains Field. Continue reading

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Image of the Week: Pot Roast Hash with Kale and Grits

Grits with Poached Egg and Kale

Life in Recipes brings us this knockout breakfast starring tender pot roast and cheesy grits. Savor this Southern-inspired dish that’s topped off with a perfectly poached egg and raw kale for a pop of color and flavor.

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Root Cellars vs. Greenhouses: No Contest at Essex Farm

Frosty kale on Essex Farm

Photo: Kristin Kimball

“The farm we run in northern New York produces a full diet, year-round, for 200 people,” writes Essex Farm‘s Kristin Kimball, author and essayist for Gourmet Live. “We have two greenhouses here, but we use them for plants mainly in the spring, to get a jump on our 100 days of frost-free growing weather. In the winter, the greenhouses shelter our flock of laying hens, so the produce we eat this time of year comes from the root cellars, or occasionally from the freezer, but never from the greenhouses.

“It has been years now since I’ve craved, in winter, the kind of greens most people think of as salad. Much as I love them in season, once it gets cold I don’t want them. They seem too insubstantial. It’s possible this is some kind of physical wisdom, since greenhouse greens can be high in nitrates. (Their growth, limited by light, is too slow to assimilate all the nitrogen in the soil.)

“For Mark and me, there is also the question of where to invest energy. Greenhouses can be real propane hogs, burning lots of fossil fuel to produce very few calories. There are methods of growing in unheated systems called high tunnels, and some farmers do this very well, but on our farm, we focus on filling bellies, and high tunnels seem too labor-intensive for a relatively small return, nutritionally. In the kitchen, I actually enjoy the relative limits of this season. It’s the aisles of big supermarkets—untethered from the seasons—that tend to leave me cold.”

Read about weathering the winter deliciously and try Kale à la Kristin Kimball.

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Food Blog of the Week: Bev Cooks

Bev Cooks

Name: Bev Weidner
Blog: Bev Cooks

Location: Kansas City

What is your all-time favorite recipe from your blog?
My most recent favorite has to be this baked polenta pie. My mouth still can’t process what happened as I was inhaling it. It was that good. I also love pizza so much it hurts, so this roasted butternut squash and kale pizza, has to be mentioned too.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what food it be?
Would you consider tacos an ingredient? I’m about to.

What is your favorite restaurant and what do you order there?
My favorite restaurant in KC is this little Italian cozy joint called Bella Napoli. And I order….the pizza. BIG SURPRISE. But man, it’s got roasted tomatoes, Italian sausage and it brings me to my knees.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
My go-to dish is pasta. A very simple, rustic linguine with olive oil, sauteed garlic, fresh basil and Parmesan. I’m starving now.

Posted in From the Food Blogs | Tagged , , , | 5 Comments

Weekly Roundup: Soups and Stews

Cioppino

From traditional Japanese Nikujaga to flavorful Pho Bo, it’s time to cozy up to a hearty bowl of the season’s best soups and stews. Take advantage of the ingredients already in your fridge or pantry, or experiment with a variety of global tastes from this week’s roundup.

  • Cioppino is believed to have started out as an Italian stew with chopped fish, but TasteFood puts a Greek spin on her version, adding a shot of ouzo to the stew stock (pictured).
  • Put your fall and winter kale to use with Never Enough Thyme’s Sausage and Kale Soup.
  • Cooking. Eating. Carousing. details a simple way to make the soy sauce and honey-seasoned Japanese beef and potato stew Nikujaga.
  • Lake Lure Cottage Kitchen shares her version of the Spanish soup Cocido, which is a chickpea-based soup made with the protein-packed trio of chicken, beef, and pork.
  • Described as “liquid gold comfort food,” Elise’s Kitchen’s Curried Butternut Soup has a spicy kick that can’t be missed.
  • Indonesia Eats’ Pho Bo is a Vietnamese beef rice noodle soup filled fresh ginger, coriander, garlic, and fennel.
  • You can’t go wrong with Elly Says Opa’s classic take on French Onion Soup.
Posted in From the Food Blogs | Tagged , , , | 4 Comments