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A Springform Pan Worth Springing For

Kaisesr Springform Pan

Photo: Courtesy of Williams-Sonoma

How many times has this happened to you? You’ve gathered all the ingredients you need to bake—in my case, I was testing Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez’s recipe for Gourmet Live’s Thanksgiving apple crostata (insanely delicious, by the way)—when you suddenly realize you don’t have the right-sized pan. The springform pan stashed deep in my cupboard turned out to be a 10-inch, not the 9-inch I needed for the recipe. Arrgghhh!

The closest cookware store to my apartment—where I now test recipes in a real-life kitchen—is Williams-Sonoma, about a 15-minute walk away. I love any excuse to wander around Williams-Sonoma, but bargain is not a word I associate with the place.

The sales clerk shows me the only 9-inch springform she has. This Kaiser LaFormer Plus pan (above) looks nothing like the light-colored and stained metal springform sides and bottoms that once filled a huge drawer in the old Gourmet magazine test kitchen. This new one is heavy, for starters, because it’s commercial grade steel coated with two layers of a non-stick ceramic surface. Heavy is a good thing with springforms, because the flimsy ones bend out of shape easily. And the locking mechanism on the side is serious. No baked good is messing with that lock!

The bottom is different, too. It’s wider, with an extra lip on the outside that makes the pan leak-proof. The Gourmet kitchen staff had a regular problem with butter leaking out of the old springform pans and onto the oven bottoms, causing smoke and a general mess. Continue reading

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How To Quickly Core and Slice An Apple

How to Core and Slice An Apple

Photo: Kemp Minifie

Fess up. Has the following scenario happened to you? You learn a nifty cooking tip, then eventually forget it, only to be reminded of it much later, at which point you wonder how you could have forgotten something so smart and easy. Sound familiar?

I was kicking myself this weekend when I was testing an upcoming recipe—stay tuned for our Thanksgiving Modern Menu!—that involved apples. I called Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez, a gifted baker and the developer of the recipe, to check just how she got to those ¼-inch thick slices of apple (for instance, she could have quartered the apples and cut each quarter into thinner wedges, the way my mother would have done it).

As Eriquez enthusiastically described her method, we simultaneously realized that she’d done a video demonstrating this timesaving trick. The photograph above also illustrates the technique, but you’d want to do it with a peeled apple—I left the skin in place for the visual appeal.

The basic approach is this: You cut the sides, or cheeks, off the apple, leaving a skinny, squared-off core. Then slice each cheek piece lengthwise.

The benefits are numerous. It’s fast, and the cuts are straight and vertical; no messing with a paring knife trying to pry a curvy core from a quartered piece of apple. Better yet, it’s safer, because each slice provides a flat surface for the apple piece to rest on, which is much more secure, lowering the risk of a bloody knife accident.

Between the photograph above, the video, and the act of writing the tip down, there’s no way I’m forgetting it again!

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