Gourmet Live Blog

Holiday Baking Made Easier

Pastry cloth and rolling pin cover

Photo: Courtesy of Norpro

Know about pastry cloths and rolling pin covers? They’re what my mother and grandmother swore by for rolling out pastry and cookie dough, but Mon Dieu, I never saw them used at cooking school in Paris, nor were they used by anyone in the Gourmet test kitchens. No, marble was the mantra for pastry, because it stays cool for those finicky French butter-rich doughs.

I’m tickled whenever something old-fashioned is new again, and pastry cloths with rolling pin covers—my mother called them rolling pin socks, and that’s exactly what they look like—are back in vogue. I see them for sale not only in cookware shops, but in the baking aisle of my local supermarket, which says a lot because Manhattan supermarkets are notoriously small and cramped with limited shelf space.

I couldn’t be happier about this development, because pastry cloths and rolling pin covers work like a charm. You rub a little flour into the cloth and the sock-like cover (once it’s on the rolling pin), then start rolling. The cloth and the cover hold the flour, creating non-stick surfaces, which helps keep the dough from absorbing it. The less flour a dough absorbs, the better the outcome. Continue reading

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Image of the Week: Pain au Chocolat

Pain au Chocolat
Christelle Tanielian of Christelle Is Flabbergasting captured this picture-worthy pain au chocolat on a recent visit to Le Fournil du Trait-Carré in Québec. Fresh croissant needs no embellishment, but filling it with deep dark chocolate certainly never detracts.
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The Mysterious Case of The Cremini Meringue Mushrooms

Cremini Meringue Mushrooms

Photo: Lara Ferroni

For the meringue mushrooms to decorate her Tiramisu Yule Log, Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez definitely did not want to go the traditional route. “Do I have to do the boring white mushrooms?” she asked. “How about I add a little cocoa to the meringue and do mushrooms that look like cremini,” she continued, her voice rising with enthusiasm.

“Great idea!” I shot back, because although I’m a fan of meringues of any kind, especially ones made to mimic mushrooms, I’ve often thought they looked too bright a white up against the chocolate brown bark of the log.

When Eriquez turned in her Christmas menu recipes, she was particularly proud of  how her mushroom idea turned out. “Just wait till you try them,” she told me, “they’re really cute.”

It’s no surprise, then, that her Yule log with the mushrooms was the first recipe I tested. Everything was going beautifully until it came time to pipe the cocoa-tinted meringue onto the baking sheet. The meringue was super stiff when I began folding in the tiny amount of cocoa Eriquez called for, but when I tried to pipe the “stems,” which are supposed to stand straight up on the baking sheet, the tops kept leaning over. Continue reading

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Food Blog of the Week: Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen

Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen


Name: Ashley Baquero
Blog: Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen

Location: Atlanta, Georgia

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
My earliest kitchen memories are with my grandparents, breading and frying eggplant slices to accompany pasta and marinara sauce. My grandfather’s Italian roots are always with me in the kitchen, and my first “on my own” meal was meat lasagna.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Lemons! Everything is better with a splash of fresh lemon juice. You can cook virtually any vegetable and dress it in lemon. Fish with lemon? Delicious! Lemonade, lemon bars, lemon cake … sweet or savory, lemons are amazing.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Salad with protein such as this, this, or this. Roasted fish is always a good, quick option as well.

I will never eat:
Brain, heart, testicles … I’m just not that adventurous.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
Oh boy, what a fun question! I would love to enjoy a meal with Graham Elliot (he seems like such a down-to-earth, lovable kind of guy, plus I could learn a thing or two), Bill and Hillary Clinton (I have a million questions on a million topics), Paulo Coelho (philosopher extraordinaire), and Chris Powell (I think he’s fabulous).

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What We’re Cooking: Hearty Make-Ahead Meals

Short Ribs Braised in Coffee Ancho Chile Sauce

‘Tis the holiday season, the end of the year, and the end of the semester. That means there are presents to buy, parties to attend, and papers to write—busy, busy, busy. I barely have time to button up my cardigan in between engagements, so I’m looking for some quick, easy meals to keep me warm. To ensure access to hearty fare, I’m cooking in bulk on Sunday, reheating, and eating a select few dishes.

My favorite make-ahead meal from our archives is Short Ribs Braised in Coffee Ancho Chile Sauce. These ribs cook low and slow in a rich sauce incorporating chipotle chiles in adobo and maple syrup. My brother calls them “zombie ribs” because the hunks of meat protruding from the deep red liquid do look a little ghoulish; but he always cleans the bones. They’re stellar served over potatoes or polenta. To store, just cool completely and refrigerate. Before reheating, remove the solidified fat that rises to the surface of the sauce.

To mix it up, I’m making Pinto-Bean Mole Chili and Curried Red-Lentil Stew with Vegetables, too. The meatless chili is a snap to pull together. The beans, zucchini, kale, garlic, and onion just simmer with seasonings: cinnamon, oregano, and cumin. Unsweetened chocolate completes the mole, which develops over days. Same goes for the flavor of the lentil stew, which melds with time. Just omit the spinach, peas, cilantro, and spice oil from initial prep. You can add them in throughout the week, while reheating, on a per-portion basis, to enliven the dish. It’s the best of both worlds: made-ahead fresh.

What’s for favorite make-ahead meal?

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Eight Nights of Fried Delights

Potato Latkes

Photo: Ditte Isager

Hanukkah is the festival of lights, and of indulging in crispy, golden, delicious fried foods. Latkes and jelly doughnuts are the perennial classics, but with deep-fried favorites like fried chicken, French fries, falafel, elephant ears, samosas, apple fritters, empanadas, corn dogs, fish and chips, fried cheese, chicken fried steak, beignets, potato chips, and tempura, the oil-cooked options are almost endless. But, we want you to tell us:

What’s your favorite fried food?

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Weekly Roundup: Baked Eggs

Five-Ingredient Breakfast Stuffed Acorn Squash

It’s not hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk, so why not bake it? The blogosphere is abuzz with hundreds of ways to get eggs out of the frying pan, into the oven. Make them the main event in quiches and frittatas, or the crowning glory of a hearty breakfast. Have a soufflé-a-day. These incredible edibles are packed with protein, minerals and vitamins—they’re one of the few containing Vitamin D. Make sure you get the good stuff: a hen’s diet affects the flavor and color of the yolk.

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The Holiday Cookie Baker’s Best Friend

Rolling Pin Spacer Bands

Photo: Courtesy of Casabella

With  holiday cookie swaps in full gear, my vote for the greatest—and simplest—bakeware innovation goes to rolling pin spacer bands. They solve an ongoing baking problem—one that vexs holiday cookie bakers particularly—with a design solution so ridiculously simple that you wonder why you didn’t come up with the brilliant concept yourself.

The problem? Rolling out dough—whether cookie or pie—to an even and specific thickness. Eyeballing it is fraught with error, and a ruler, if you can find one—not easy in my cluttered kitchen—is a pain in the neck when you’re talking about 1/4-inch or less. Recipe writers have gotten in the habit of also giving the diameter of the rolled out dough, but that tidbit is only helpful on the first roll of something like a cut-out butter cookie dough. It doesn’t apply to the scraps.

The simple solution? Drum roll, please: Sturdy but stretchable silicone rings in varying thicknesses that slide onto the ends of your rolling pin and raise it above your work surface to the exact thickness you want your dough to end up being. All the guesswork and estimation is gone. Just roll your pin back and forth until it no longer encounters any hills or ridges of dough. This way you know for sure that your dough is even, which means the cookies will bake and color more evenly. No more burnt Christmas cookie tree trunks.

Several companies make the rings, and there’s even a rolling pin that comes fitted with metric-sized discs, but I particularly love the wide, brightly-colored bands made by Casabella that come in four sizes, ranging from 1/2 inch down to 1/16th inch. Because of their heft and intensely saturated hues, no way will I  be losing track of these bands in my gadget drawer!

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12.05.12: Here’s to the Holidays

Gourmet Live: Here's to the Holidays

Taste your way into 2013 with 12 exceptional new recipes for Hanukkah, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve. Plus Ruth Bourdain’s gift guide, holiday cookie tips, and more in our holiday-themed issue.

Download the free Gourmet Live app for access to all of the issues and recipes, and visit Gourmet.com to read this month’s issue in full, including:

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Image of the Week: Hanukkah Latkes

Hanukkah Latkes

It’s that time of year when menorahs are lit, dreidels are spun, and little sachets of foil-wrapped chocolate gelt are handed out. Hanukkah typically lasts eight days, but Cook Kosher has a recipe for Potato Latkes that will make you want this Hanukkah favorite on your dinner table year-round. These potato latkes emerge from the frying pan golden, crisp, and ready to be topped with a small spoonful of applesauce or good quality crème fraîche. Make a few batches for your upcoming Hanukkah party or as a tasty side dish at the December dinner table.

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The Must-Have Book on Latin American Food

Gran-Cocina-Latina

Cover Image: Courtesy of W. W. Norton & Company, Inc.

Maricel Presilla’s Gran Cocina Latina is not just the most important cookbook to be published this year, I’m convinced it will also prove to be a culinary landmark of the 21st century. The fact that people of Hispanic or Latino origin are this country’s largest ethnic group was often mentioned during this most recent Presidential election. It’s a given that if you want to understand other cultures, the best way is through their food.

Presilla has written a veritable encyclopedia on the many cuisines and customs from all over Central and South America, based on almost 30 years of travel and research to unearth the secrets behind the vast array of flavors and cooking methods within Latin American cooking, which she describes in the first chapter as “the world’s first and greatest laboratory of intercontinental culinary ‘fusion.’”

And Presilla’s got the credentials to produce such an incredible tome. A Cuban by birth, she lived in Spain for several years before coming to the United States, where she got a doctorate in medieval Spanish history from New York University. But thank goodness Presilla didn’t stay in academia. She was so fascinated by food through her research that she eventually became a chef and co-owner of two restaurants in Hoboken, New Jersey: Zafra, a pan-Latin café, and Cucharamama, a more serious restaurant featuring what she describes as artisanal South American cooking. Her food is so good, she was named the Best Chef in the Mid-Atlantic Region by the James Beard Foundation in 2012.

To say this 900-page book is encyclopedic might imply to some people that okay, it’s informative, but probably a bit dry and boring. Nothing could be further from the truth! Every time I open the book to a different page, I’m instantly absorbed and fascinated by the delightful and detailed story behind each recipe. Continue reading

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Food Blog of the Week: CakeWalk

CakeWalk


Name: Rebecca Gagnon
Blog: CakeWalk

Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
I’m not sure I remember the very first, but one very early meal was homemade pizza. I was 11, and I put raw pork sausage on my humble homemade dough. Even after baking, my mom wouldn’t let us eat it.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
One ingredient? I’d cleverly choose wheat, so I could talk about bread everyday.

I will never eat:
I don’t think there is anything I wouldn’t try, but I will never eat processed foods so much as I can help it!

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
If I could have anyone, I would pick Peter Reinhart. He seems like he would have a million great stories, and I’m sure I would learn a lot and be infinitely inspired in my baking life.

What is your all-time favorite recipe from your blog?
Lacto-Fermented Cilantro-Raisin Chutney. I know it sounds strange, which is why I dismissed it until I took my first taste. It goes well with everything, and I have had a perpetual jar in the fridge ever since I first posted about it. I always leave out the anise seed so my husband will also eat it.

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What We’re Cooking: Hanukkah Favorites

Provencal Short Ribs with Olives and Herbs for Hanukkah

Hanukkah is not only a festival of lights, but also a festival of food, with countless holiday staples like tender brisket and crispy latkes tempting our taste buds. While I have toyed with countless recipes over past Hanukkah holidays, I’ve finally settled on a hearty menu that celebrates the season and the bounty of enticing tastes.

For the first course, I like to keep it light and serve up a citrus-packed Endive Escarole SaladPotato Latkes then appear, usually leaving few leftovers for my next day’s lunch. Before guests can fill up on potato pancakes, Provencal Short Ribs with Olives and Herbs (pictured above) are served alongside the much-anticipated Temple Israel Brisket. Finally, piles of Kemp’s Cinderella Carrots and Grilled Asparagus hit the table. About 15 to 20 minutes later, guests are already reaching across the table for seconds as I sneak into the kitchen and put the finishing touches on the Amaretto Olive Oil Cake.

What are your favorite Hanukkah Recipes?

 
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Weekly Roundup: Recipes Starring Chia Seeds

Chia Seed Pudding

Remember Chia Pets? Their “hair” was made from sprouted chia seeds, which are novelty no more. Chia is taking over supermarket shelves, coming into its own as a healthy ingredient with diverse applications. Dry, it feels like poppy seeds, but when wet it produces a gel coating, making the seeds slip and slide inside your mouth. Chia doesn’t pack much of a flavor punch—it’s subtly nutty, less so than flaxseed—but when it comes to nutritional value, watch out: according to the USDA website, chia has 9.8g of fiber and 4.7g of protein per ounce. It’s also a good source of calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, with no cholesterol or trans fat. Make cooking with chia your pet project this week:

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Stick-to-Your-Ribs Stews

Boeuf Bourguignonne

Photo: Gourmet Magazine

Winter is almost here, and the cold weather is making us crave warm, hearty, filling bowls of stew. With options like Bouillabaisse, feijoada, goulash, Brunswick, gumbo, chowder, jambalaya, burgoo, cassoulet, Étouffée, Cioppino, Irish stew, pepper pot, and boeuf bourguignon it’s hard to pick just one.

What’s your favorite kind of stew?

 
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New at the Smithsonian: Transforming the American Table

Smithsonian Food Exhibit

Photo Courtesy of the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History

If food and history are two of your passions, then look no further than the latest exhibit to open at The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. The exhibit, FOOD: Transforming the American Table, 1950-2000, is focused not only on what we’ve eaten through the decades, but also how our culinary preferences have shaped American culture and cuisine.

From the rise of centralized agriculture to the evolution of wine-making, the exhibit is serving up facts and fun about all things food in a 3,800-square-foot gallery and is scheduled to remain open for at least two years. Head over to the Smithsonian’s site for details on each of the six exhibit components, including:

  • Julia Child’s Kitchen
  • New and Improved!
  • Resetting the Table
  • Wine for the Table
  • Open Table
 
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The Ultimate Foodie Gift: The Bocuse D’Or Cookware Set

All-Clad Bocuse D'Or Cookware Set

Photo: Courtesy of Bocuse D'Or Foundation

If you’re looking for the ultimate gift for a very special someone who happens to be obsessed with food and cooking, consider the limited edition All-Clad Bocuse D’Or Cookware Set that was curated by chefs Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse. It comes with a worthwhile bonus: A portion of the sales will go to the Bocuse D’Or Foundation in the United States, which was formed in 2008 to support the training of aspiring American chefs for the Bocuse D’Or competition—the Olympics of the culinary world—held in Lyons, France, every two years. An American team has yet to win the prize, but there’s hope the Foundation support will help change that.

The set consists of six pieces: a skillet, four various-sized saucepans, and my personal favorite, a universal lid that fits any of the saucepans. The pieces are not sold separately.  If they were, I’d be a sucker for that lid.

I have two All-Clad pieces in my home kitchen, both of which I treasure because they’re heavy and heat evenly, without hot spots. The All-Clad pieces in the Bocuse D’Or set are extra-heavy because the bottoms not only have a copper core, but that copper core is sandwiched between two layers of aluminum, which is then sandwiched between two layers of stainless steel. In assembling the Bocuse D’Or collection, Thomas Keller, chef/owner of The French Laundry in California and Per Se in New York, chose the pans he finds the most useful in his own kitchen. Williams-Sonoma has the exclusive rights on selling the set.

The 2013 competition is coming up in January, and the American team this time around is composed of chef Richard Rosendale of the Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, and his commis, Corey Siegel, a culinary apprentice at the Greenbrier. We’ll be rooting for you!

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Image of the Week: Caramel Cake

Caramel Cake
No-bake Caramel Cake by Gosia Kwiatkowska of Sweet Art proves it’s hip to be square. Butter cookie crumbs divide layers of dulce de leche and pudding flavored with almond oil and rum. Fresh whipped cream and shaved chocolate finish the dish, which would be a spectacular addition to any Thanksgiving table.
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Just In Time For Holiday Bakers: Red Walnuts!

Red Walnuts

Photo: Kemp Minifie

If ever there was a perfect nut for the December holidays, it’s the red walnut. The skin covering the creamy white nutmeat is almost uncanny in its deep, beaujolais-red color. You might be tempted to think someone got frisky with a bottle of red dye, or suspect that there’s some wacky genetic modification going on, but in fact, it’s the result of grafting Persian red walnut trees onto the more common English walnut trees, because English walnuts are larger, creamier nuts.

Interestingly, what we call the English walnut is actually native to Persia. The English became linked with the walnut, not because they grew them commercially—they didn’t—but because English sea merchants traded them all around the world. These days, California produces about three-quarters of the world’s walnuts.

You’d never know a red walnut by its shell. It’s the same shade of beige as an English walnut. It isn’t until you carefully crack one open that the scarlet hue reveals itself. If the color doesn’t hook you, the flavor will. Red walnuts have a richer, nuttier essence, without the bitter tannins you often find in English walnuts. Once you try some red walnuts, you’ll find it hard to keep your hands out of a bag of them.

I can’t wait to make our Perigord Walnut Tart with them, or our Whole Wheat Bread with Walnuts and Cranberries. Holiday baking just got a lot more fun with these red walnuts! Supplies are limited, so be prepared to pay more for red walnuts. A good source is nuts.com.

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Food Blog of the Week: Emiko Davies

Emiko Davies


Name: Emiko Davies
Blog: Emiko Davies

Location: Melbourne, Australia

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Can I say it would be a local ingredient – I think that cooking with only ingredients made, grown, or produced in your region would be a real and sometimes near impossible challenge (especially for me, as I tend to use a lot of imported Italian products!). I think we easily forget how much we use and have the luxury of food coming from far-flung places of the world. It’d be an interesting experiment, that’s for sure!

I will never eat:
This is actually a really difficult question! I don’t normally say no to any sort of fresh food or ingredient and luckily I don’t have any allergies, so the only thing I think I could honestly say “never” to is endangered or threatened species! Sharks, for instance, and other non-sustainably fished seafood would be up there.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
Time warps aside, it would have to be a dinner party with my favorite historic cookbook writers, Pellegrino Artusi, Elizabeth David, Alice B. Toklas, and her partner and fellow foodie, Gertrude Stein.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Uova al pomodoro, a rustic, one-pot meal of eggs poached in a quick tomato sauce.

What’s your favorite restaurant and what do you order there?
There’s a great, absolutely tiny family-run restaurant in Florence called Vini e Vecchi Sapori. They have a simple, constantly changing menu but whenever they have it, the sweet tooth in me can never go past the tiramisù ai lamponi (raspberry tiramisu).

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