Photo: CheeryVisage
Ah, so many restaurants…so many calories. I’ve had the great luck to eat in some of the world’s best restaurants, and very often, the places I am most impressed with are those with soaring aspirations yet humble underpinnings. I’ve come to the conclusion that when chefs train laser focus on the food, with everything else—ambiance, service, design—receiving secondary emphasis, then the restaurants have the best chance of achieving greatness.
In the last month, I’ve been to two unassuming places that follow this philosophy: Danji (pictured above), on the outskirts of New York City’s Theater District, is a tiny Korean spot with a big heart. With only 36 seats, and decor comprised of spoons and strung lights over communal tables, Danji excels with a very focused menu. Chef/owner Hooni Kim, formerly of Daniel and Masa, prides himself on doing these few things very well: Homemade tofu, with a crunchy exterior but soft interior, is dressed with a ginger-scallion vinaigrette; double-fried vegetable dumplings are filled with sprightly herbs; sliders come packed with braised spicy pork belly or beef; the dish of the moment, chicken wings, are coated in honey and chiles before being roasted. And then there’s the kimchi–piquant, pungent, and powerful, this is what cabbage is made for. (346 West 52nd Street,
New York City; 212-586-2880)
Twenty-five miles up the Hudson River is Harper’s Restaurant and Bar. Focusing on farm-to-table cuisine, enhanced with artisanal cocktails that would be at home in any Williamsburg, Brooklyn bar, this sophisticated Dobbs Ferry restaurant stands apart for its commitment to freshness. Chef Christopher Vergara lives the locavore ethos as much as possible, serving up ultra fresh chicken liver with shallots and walnuts; goat cheese ravioli with golden beets; crispy duck with white beans and caramelized onions; and wild greens from the area. This is served up in an old tavern with a farmhouse feel–distressed wood, wallpaper made from old newspaper ads, and a gorgeous blue room that makes diners feel like they are sitting in a Van Gogh painting come to life. (92 Main Street, Dobbs Ferry, NY; 914-693-2306)
