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Author Archives: Megan Labrise

Weekly Roundup: Recipes Starring Leeks

Chicken and Vegetable Turnover

Bake or sauté, roast or fry, frizzle or grill: leeks can take the heat. We’re rounding up a few of our favorite ways to make leeks the star of your next meal, including flaky turnovers, tasty tarts, and cozy casseroles.

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Weekly Roundup: Biscuits

Cheddar-Jalapeno Biscuits

What’s better than a biscuit? Not much. They’re best when still warm, steaming, presented in a dish towel-draped basket—when you split them and a butter pat just glides over the inside. Of course they’re good packed in a lunchbox or frozen then toasted, too. An indulgence to be sure, one biscuit always leaves me wanting more. Here are some fresh takes on biscuits for your next meal:

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Image of the Week: Squash Soup

Squash and Carrot Soup
This herb-speckled Squash Soup with Rosemary and Spice by Allison Sklar of the Bacon Eating Jewish Vegetarian is a fitting repast for a cozy night in. A dollop of sour cream adds contrast to the carrot-hued concoction.
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Food Blog of the Week: parsnips aplenty

Parsnips Aplenty


Name: Lauren Mitchell
Blog: parsnips aplenty

Location: Portland, Oregon

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
See, I grew up in rural Appalachia, with well water that turned the white laundry rusty-colored, so every couple of weeks we had to go to the laundromat to wash the light-colored clothes. One day when I was 14 or so I ripped out a ridiculously complicated carbonara recipe from Family Circle, and I spent approximately two hours and twelve pans to make it. And even if it wasn’t actually carbonara, it was pretty stellar.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Onions.

I will never eat:
Blue cheese (yuck), foie gras (unless it comes from that one guy in Spain who raises his happy animals), and probably not the still-beating heart of a cobra. I also find jackfruit revolting.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
If “dinner” is a euphemism, Nathan Fillion. If it’s not, then I like making food for people who treat it like a cooking lesson. If Nathan Fillion wants a cooking lesson, I mean, that’s cool too.

What is your all-time favorite recipe from your blog?
There are so many, but the Garlic Chive Pesto was probably one of the better surprises I made, and every time I eat it I’m ecstatic that it’s there. The entry I wrote above it is one of the more personal ones, too, and it carries the satisfaction of saying just what I needed to say.

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What We’re Cooking: All Things Nutmeg

Banana Upside-Down Cake

Ok, I’ll admit it: I didn’t know that nutmeg and mace were parts of the same plant. Did you? (Why didn’t you tell me?) Nutmeg isn’t a nut—it’s a seed—and mace is the vibrant red anil, or covering, that protects it.

I prefer nutmeg freshly grated. It contains myristicin, a natural organic compound which can trigger hallucinations in large doses—but that’s not why I like it, no no. Nutmeg is just one of those ingredients that brings warmth and complexity to dishes when added in small amounts.

Bananas and nutmeg are a dynamic duo. Together they remind me of a trip to Jamaica in late 2010. The island air had a spicy-sweet smell, and desserts featuring nutmeg and bananas were plentiful. This Banana Upside-Down Cake (above) exhibits all their best attributes. As advised in the recipe notes, do not use overripe bananas: they may disintegrate and can take on a rather disconcerting purplish hue. I learned this from experience.

A generous pinch of fresh nutmeg makes my creamed spinach transcendent. Use it in yours and taste the difference. Or try this Lasagne Bolognese with Spinach. It’s the kind of meal that readies you for a long winter’s nap. For a multi-course extravaganza, begin with Potted Crab, where nutmeg adds earthiness to Alaskan king crab meat; have the lasagne for a main; and end with Eggnog Ice Cream. Three courses’ worth of nutmeg may be enough to produce a gentle state of euphoria—but, for me, any well-cooked three-course meal usually will.

Are you ready to break out the nutmeg?

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Image of the Week: Caramel Pineapple Cheesecake

Caramel Pineapple Cheesecake
It may be cold enough to see your breath on the city street, but this Caramel Pineapple Cheesecake by Karen of Citrus and Candy will transport you to a tropical clime. Its sunny yellow pineapple and deep amber caramel are the colors of a Caribbean sunset.
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Image of the Week: Pain au Chocolat

Pain au Chocolat
Christelle Tanielian of Christelle Is Flabbergasting captured this picture-worthy pain au chocolat on a recent visit to Le Fournil du Trait-Carré in Québec. Fresh croissant needs no embellishment, but filling it with deep dark chocolate certainly never detracts.
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Food Blog of the Week: Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen

Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen


Name: Ashley Baquero
Blog: Quick and Dirty in the Kitchen

Location: Atlanta, Georgia

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
My earliest kitchen memories are with my grandparents, breading and frying eggplant slices to accompany pasta and marinara sauce. My grandfather’s Italian roots are always with me in the kitchen, and my first “on my own” meal was meat lasagna.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Lemons! Everything is better with a splash of fresh lemon juice. You can cook virtually any vegetable and dress it in lemon. Fish with lemon? Delicious! Lemonade, lemon bars, lemon cake … sweet or savory, lemons are amazing.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Salad with protein such as this, this, or this. Roasted fish is always a good, quick option as well.

I will never eat:
Brain, heart, testicles … I’m just not that adventurous.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
Oh boy, what a fun question! I would love to enjoy a meal with Graham Elliot (he seems like such a down-to-earth, lovable kind of guy, plus I could learn a thing or two), Bill and Hillary Clinton (I have a million questions on a million topics), Paulo Coelho (philosopher extraordinaire), and Chris Powell (I think he’s fabulous).

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What We’re Cooking: Hearty Make-Ahead Meals

Short Ribs Braised in Coffee Ancho Chile Sauce

‘Tis the holiday season, the end of the year, and the end of the semester. That means there are presents to buy, parties to attend, and papers to write—busy, busy, busy. I barely have time to button up my cardigan in between engagements, so I’m looking for some quick, easy meals to keep me warm. To ensure access to hearty fare, I’m cooking in bulk on Sunday, reheating, and eating a select few dishes.

My favorite make-ahead meal from our archives is Short Ribs Braised in Coffee Ancho Chile Sauce. These ribs cook low and slow in a rich sauce incorporating chipotle chiles in adobo and maple syrup. My brother calls them “zombie ribs” because the hunks of meat protruding from the deep red liquid do look a little ghoulish; but he always cleans the bones. They’re stellar served over potatoes or polenta. To store, just cool completely and refrigerate. Before reheating, remove the solidified fat that rises to the surface of the sauce.

To mix it up, I’m making Pinto-Bean Mole Chili and Curried Red-Lentil Stew with Vegetables, too. The meatless chili is a snap to pull together. The beans, zucchini, kale, garlic, and onion just simmer with seasonings: cinnamon, oregano, and cumin. Unsweetened chocolate completes the mole, which develops over days. Same goes for the flavor of the lentil stew, which melds with time. Just omit the spinach, peas, cilantro, and spice oil from initial prep. You can add them in throughout the week, while reheating, on a per-portion basis, to enliven the dish. It’s the best of both worlds: made-ahead fresh.

What’s for favorite make-ahead meal?

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Weekly Roundup: Baked Eggs

Five-Ingredient Breakfast Stuffed Acorn Squash

It’s not hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk, so why not bake it? The blogosphere is abuzz with hundreds of ways to get eggs out of the frying pan, into the oven. Make them the main event in quiches and frittatas, or the crowning glory of a hearty breakfast. Have a soufflé-a-day. These incredible edibles are packed with protein, minerals and vitamins—they’re one of the few containing Vitamin D. Make sure you get the good stuff: a hen’s diet affects the flavor and color of the yolk.

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Food Blog of the Week: CakeWalk

CakeWalk


Name: Rebecca Gagnon
Blog: CakeWalk

Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
I’m not sure I remember the very first, but one very early meal was homemade pizza. I was 11, and I put raw pork sausage on my humble homemade dough. Even after baking, my mom wouldn’t let us eat it.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
One ingredient? I’d cleverly choose wheat, so I could talk about bread everyday.

I will never eat:
I don’t think there is anything I wouldn’t try, but I will never eat processed foods so much as I can help it!

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
If I could have anyone, I would pick Peter Reinhart. He seems like he would have a million great stories, and I’m sure I would learn a lot and be infinitely inspired in my baking life.

What is your all-time favorite recipe from your blog?
Lacto-Fermented Cilantro-Raisin Chutney. I know it sounds strange, which is why I dismissed it until I took my first taste. It goes well with everything, and I have had a perpetual jar in the fridge ever since I first posted about it. I always leave out the anise seed so my husband will also eat it.

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Weekly Roundup: Recipes Starring Chia Seeds

Chia Seed Pudding

Remember Chia Pets? Their “hair” was made from sprouted chia seeds, which are novelty no more. Chia is taking over supermarket shelves, coming into its own as a healthy ingredient with diverse applications. Dry, it feels like poppy seeds, but when wet it produces a gel coating, making the seeds slip and slide inside your mouth. Chia doesn’t pack much of a flavor punch—it’s subtly nutty, less so than flaxseed—but when it comes to nutritional value, watch out: according to the USDA website, chia has 9.8g of fiber and 4.7g of protein per ounce. It’s also a good source of calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, with no cholesterol or trans fat. Make cooking with chia your pet project this week:

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Image of the Week: Caramel Cake

Caramel Cake
No-bake Caramel Cake by Gosia Kwiatkowska of Sweet Art proves it’s hip to be square. Butter cookie crumbs divide layers of dulce de leche and pudding flavored with almond oil and rum. Fresh whipped cream and shaved chocolate finish the dish, which would be a spectacular addition to any Thanksgiving table.
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Food Blog of the Week: Emiko Davies

Emiko Davies


Name: Emiko Davies
Blog: Emiko Davies

Location: Melbourne, Australia

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Can I say it would be a local ingredient – I think that cooking with only ingredients made, grown, or produced in your region would be a real and sometimes near impossible challenge (especially for me, as I tend to use a lot of imported Italian products!). I think we easily forget how much we use and have the luxury of food coming from far-flung places of the world. It’d be an interesting experiment, that’s for sure!

I will never eat:
This is actually a really difficult question! I don’t normally say no to any sort of fresh food or ingredient and luckily I don’t have any allergies, so the only thing I think I could honestly say “never” to is endangered or threatened species! Sharks, for instance, and other non-sustainably fished seafood would be up there.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
Time warps aside, it would have to be a dinner party with my favorite historic cookbook writers, Pellegrino Artusi, Elizabeth David, Alice B. Toklas, and her partner and fellow foodie, Gertrude Stein.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Uova al pomodoro, a rustic, one-pot meal of eggs poached in a quick tomato sauce.

What’s your favorite restaurant and what do you order there?
There’s a great, absolutely tiny family-run restaurant in Florence called Vini e Vecchi Sapori. They have a simple, constantly changing menu but whenever they have it, the sweet tooth in me can never go past the tiramisù ai lamponi (raspberry tiramisu).

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Food Blog of the Week: Figs in the Sun

Figs in the Sun


Name: Ayano Hodouchi
Blog: Figs in the Sun

Location: New York, New York

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
I think it was a pancake – a big, fluffy pancake. One of the picture books I loved the most as a child was a series called “Guri and Gura.” (The original is in Japanese but has been translated into several languages, including English.) In one of the books, Guri and Gura (a couple of field mice) find a huge egg. It’s so big they don’t know what to do with it, so they decide to make the biggest pancake ever. They go home and grab a big pan, flour, butter, milk, sugar, a bowl, an eggbeater, two aprons, matches, and a rucksack. The image of this big, yellow, fluffy pancake cooking in the middle of the forest, attracting all the animals nearby, caught my imagination and I kept on obsessing about huge pancakes. I think by the time I was 10 or 11, I was making pancakes for Sunday breakfast while my parents were asleep.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
Hard question. Cheese, perhaps. Asian cuisines traditionally don’t use cheese, but otherwise, most dishes benefit from a bit of cheese in (or on) it. Cheese is great for baking as well, I can think of dozens of bread, cookie, and cake recipes using cheese. I could introduce various types of cheese – fresh, blue, smoked, goat, sheep, water buffalo – and probably by the end of the year I would start dabbling in cheese-making myself!

I will never eat:
Offal. I know there are many different recipes using various organs in European cuisines (not to mention Chinese,) but in Japan, organs are considered “unclean” parts of the animal and traditionally not eaten. Having grown up in a Japanese household, I stay away from organs. That said, I do occasionally eat chicken livers if they are cooked very well, but that was a recently-acquired taste for me.

Continue reading
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What We’re Cooking: Pumpkin Pie Alternatives

Cranberry Eggnog Tart

We’ve all been there before: you ring the bell; the relatives open the door. “Happy Thanksgiving!” they cry, as all eyes turn toward the pumpkin pie you offer with outstretched arms. Faces fall, and you just know your hosts are thinking, Not another one! They graciously receive your pumpkin pie and place it among four others.

No one wants to be the fifth-pumpkin-pie guy. That’s why this year I’m reworking my Thanksgiving dessert repertoire. From straightforward to show-stopper, there are plenty of alternative desserts that taste just as sweet. For example, there’s Cranberry Walnut Tart, a trusty little number that comes together much like a pecan pie. Just press the crust into a fluted tart pan with removable bottom, pre-bake, and plop in the filling, a heady mix of brown sugar, corn syrup, cranberries and walnuts. The cranberries and nuts rise to the top during baking, offering tart and earthy counterpoints to the sticky sweet filling. For a more vibrant variation, try Cranberry Eggnog Tart (above), topped with slick cranberry jam. The truly ambitious can make a candied-orange and cranberry compote accompaniment.

What about chocolate? It’s often crowded out of a holiday pie lineup. Bring it back to the table in Twelve-Layer Mocha Cake. This cake is like an elegant cousin of tiramisù, dressed up for the holiday in its coffee and mocha buttercream best. With a chocolate curl on top, when it’s good it’s very, very good—and it can never be bad.

In my cookbook, a trifle is no simple thing. Why wait for Santa’s sleigh when you can enjoy a stunning Almond Sherry Christmas Trifle right away? The best part is you’ll be enjoying an apéritif on the couch while the turkey tenders run around like you-know-whats. This trifle is always best when made ahead, which gives the cake layers (and you) time to soak up the Sherry.

What are you bringing for Thanksgiving dessert?

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Image of the Week: Braided Onions

Braided Onions

Ashley Bartner of La Tavola Marche snapped this image of braided onions from this year’s bumper crop. Bartner and her husband, Jason, own and operate an organic farm, inn and cooking school in Piobbico, Italy. Hung by their braids in a cool well-ventilated place, the dried bulbs can keep for up to a year.

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Food Blog of the Week: Como Water

Como Water


Name: Tiffany M. Griffin
Blog: Como Water

Location: Washington, D.C.

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
This is a tough one! I’ve been cooking since I was 7. I can’t remember the first thing I cooked, but I can remember the first thing that impressed my mom. I must have been 10 or 11 and I breaded some whiting in an egg wash, flour, and bread crumbs. I come from pretty meager beginnings, but I remember going to the dollar store and spending my allowance on dried parsley. I added the parsley to the bread crumbs before sautéing the fish. It was pretty fancy for my household and my mom actually thought that I bought it! After convincing her that I had actually made it, she ran and bragged to my nana about how good of a cook I was.

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what would it be?
I know, I know, it’s totally clichéd, but I’m going to say it anyway: chocolate. A close second would be onion, because literally everything savory that I make starts with onions.

I will never eat:
Raspberries. Yeah, I said it. Give me any berry but raspberries.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
Another tough one! Ok … living: Junot Díaz, Assata Shakur, and Jack Kornfield; dead: the Buddha and the Kellogg Brothers.

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Cereal, cheese and crackers, rice and beans. Not together.

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What We’re Cooking: Duck Fat

Confit Duck Legs

Duck fat imparts a marvelous richness to everything from pan-fried potatoes to baked goods. Anything cooked with it just seems like a luxury, an indulgence. Whenever I visit my friend in Portland, Maine, we make a point of eating at a restaurant named for this luscious lipid. The menu is a paean to foods prepared with the eponymous ingredient, and we never fail to eat our fill of the excellent Belgian-style fries.

Cooking with duck fat can be daunting, but the effort is worthwhile. You can buy it from a specialty store or render your own at home. The first time I roasted a pair of whole ducks I was amazed by the amount of subcutaneous fat covering the breasts, which were truly well endowed.

You’ll need a large supply of duck fat to make Confit Duck Legs, a recipe calling for 35 ounces. Confit cookery requires that the duck be completely immersed in molten fat. When the dish cools the fat solidifies, preserving the flesh. This yields succulent duck with hints of garlic, nutmeg and thyme. The legs are great straight but best when crowning a cassoulet. Continue reading

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Weekly Roundup: Satisfying Soups

October Evening Lentil Soup with Spinach

Soup simply soothes the soul. It often cures the common cold. All I need is a rounded cup and curved spoon to take the edge off a rainy day. When the weather turns cold, give me soup by the bowlful. Fragrant and filling, there’s no meal quite like it; of course it’s diverse, equally fitting as appetizer or entrée. To bisque and back, from broths to a hearty mélange approaching stew or ragù, here are a few soups to inspire you:

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