
Photo: Gourmet
Gourmet Live’s latest issue, California Dreaming, got me musing about the tremendous influence California has had on American food in the last 40-something years. So I called Zanne Stewart, who was the executive food editor of Gourmet during three of those decades, to get her take on it. When Stewart joined the editorial staff in 1972, the focus was mainly on Europe. “I badgered Jane [Montant, the editor-in-chief], about California restaurants, and she kept brushing me off. Finally, she whirled around one day and said, ‘California? Really? Those are the people who invented brunch.’”
Despite Montant’s withering dismissal of the topic, she did change course, and soon hired Caroline Bates, a former Gourmet staffer and gifted writer, to cover California restaurants on a monthly basis.
Informed by Bates’ columns—which didn’t just review restaurants, but also reported on emerging environmental issues—other West Coast foodies, and her own travels, Stewart distilled California’s significant effect on American food into five insightful trends:
Mediterranean Romance: The Mediterranean Diet hadn’t yet been coined as a term, but the likes of Alice Waters and others were smitten by the pure, fresh flavors in the foods of the Mediterranean, and didn’t see why they couldn’t achieve the same in California with their own homegrown ingredients.
Periphery of The Plate: The whopping hunk of animal protein dominating the center of American plates was de-emphasized as we paid more attention to the salad, the bread, and the wine. “It was a big idea that salad was made of leaves, and not from some round ball of greenish stuff that you chopped up,” explained Stewart. “The leaves in Alice Water’s impeccable salads were almost curated by the effect they could have on the palate.” Continue reading




















