Gourmet Live Blog

Monthly Archives: July 2012

Cooking with Beet Greens

Photo: Gourmet/Stephanie Foley

Beets, along with their bushy plumage of greens, are currently enjoying prime time status in farmers markets. The beet roots are plump and heavy with juice, the stalks are still youthfully sturdy—not withering with age—and the leaves live up to their name: They’re vibrantly green.

What galls me is watching the number of shoppers who request the greens be removed when it’s their turn at the cash register. Even sadder is the willingness with which the farmers or their assistants hack off the leaves without a word of encouragement to the unwitting buyer to keep them intact.

Why do you think beets are sold with the greens, anyway? It’s not just a marketing ploy, although robust greens means the roots are fresh. They’re edible! You don’t usually see the poisonous green leaves attached to rhubarb stalks, do you? But saying you can eat the leaves doesn’t do them justice. They’re loaded with nutrients—some statistics rate the greens higher than the root—which for me is an added plus, but not the reason I devour them. No, the truth is that I prefer beet greens to just about any other green. Continue reading

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Food Blog of the Week: Tartine and Apron Strings

Tartine and Apron Strings

Name: Jen Laceda
Blog: Tartine and Apron Strings

Location: Toronto, Canada

If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what food it be?
Butter! I’m sure I’ll be 20 pounds heavier by the end of the year, but there are so many things you can do with butter, whether sweet or savory. I’m keen on experimenting with different kinds of butter from around the world, too, especially the European ones!

What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
Pasta aglio e olio. What’s more simple than pasta tossed in garlic, olive oil, red chili flakes, and wine or broth? It’s so delicious that my kids actually prefer this to “fast food.”

What is the first meal you ever cooked?
The first meal I ever cooked was steamed Jasmine rice and boiled eggs. I was 12. Although I have been watching my grandmother cook since I was 5 or 6 years old, I was not allowed to be in our (outdoor) kitchen by myself because we cooked with grills and clay pots on charcoal and woks on propane gas fire. When my grandmother finally allowed me to venture out on my own, she made sure I first mastered making perfect rice and eggs!

I will never eat:
The head or brains of animals (cow, pig, goat, lamb, fish, etc.). And pigeon (I have a pigeon phobia and it’s quite debilitating).

Is there a food you used to hate, but now love?
I can’t think of any particular food, but I can say that I used to hate sweet in my savory dishes. For example, Hawaiian pizza with pineapples was a big no-no; raisins in my empanadas were always discarded; sweet and sour pork was regarded as a crime. But now, I have accepted, even come to love, a bit of sweetness in my savory dishes as long as the flavor combination works.

What is your favorite restaurant and what do you order there?
Per Se in New York City is my favorite restaurant, and I’d order the Oysters and Pearls and Cornet of Salmon Tartare over and over again! But on a more practical level, I frequent this tiny sushi place called Sushi 67 in Toronto’s Roncesvalles Village. For $11.95, you get a 10-sushi, 6-makimono combo. The chef there really knows how to pick unbelievably fresh fish that he slices to perfection. Let’s just say I ate sushi made by him (and only him) throughout my pregnancy, yet not one sushi-related illness occurred.

Who would you love to have over for dinner?
The answer to this question is ever changing for me. But right now, my pick is Michael Pollan, so I can get more inside scoop on state of our food nation. If he’s not available, my next choice is Aran Goyoaga of the Cannelle et Vanille blog, so I can learn food styling and photography from her.

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What We’re Cooking: Grilled Clams

Grilled Clams

Nothing beats the fragrant aroma of fresh clams hot off the grill in the summertime. This week, I’m starting simple with Grilled Clams by popping the shellfish onto the grates to bake. After 3 to 7 minutes, the clams pop open,signaling they’re ready for a quick soak in a mix of white wine, minced garlic, melted butter, and paprika. And what better accompaniment to soak up all those juices than crispy, grilled slices of French baguette?

Once I have mastered the grilling technique, I’m going to kick it up a notch by introducing Tequila and mussels to the mix. Our recipe for Clams and Mussels in Tequila, adapted from Chef Fabrice Guisset of Las Ventanas al Paraíso, Los Cabos, will take you on a trip without ever needing to leave your kitchen. It stars a touch of Añejo Tequila, along with sliced cherry tomatoes, chives, red chiles, and fresh herbs. Next, I am breaking out the pasta pot and making the classic linguine and clams, but with an extra secret ingredient to push this lavish dish over the top: bacon.  Linguine with Grilled Clams and Bacon combines the salty, sea flavor of the fresh clams with crispy bacon pieces, and is seasoned with red-pepper flakes, olive oil, minced garlic, and a squeeze of fresh lemon on top.

What’s your favorite way to cook with clams?

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In Food News This Week

  • Joel Stein skewers the pomposity found in so many trendy restaurants in The New Yorker‘s “I Will Be Your Server.” Classic line, uttered from waiter to diner: “First of all, we ask a lot of questions designed to make you feel insecure. Is everyone at the table O.K. with feeling insecure?” [Diner:] “That’s why we go out to eat!”
  • In a gorgeously photographed video, our buddy, Bayou Bakery‘s David Guas, rides his Harley to his friendly beekeeper and then in macho fashion cooks up a cornbread with said honey. Score one for advertising agency Campfire, which has come up with a unique way to promote a very established brand.
  • Benjamin Phalen delves deep in Slate on the issue of why America is one of the few countries to only consume milk from one type of mammal, as opposed to yak, horse, reindeer or camel.
  • Eatocracy reports that L.A. chefs are already planning to duck out of California’s new law that prohibits the selling of foie gras. What will be their secret? Giving it away for free.
  • And just before you fire up the grill this weekend, check to make sure you’re not eating ground beef from Cargill, which was just recalled due to the presence of salmonella. We’ll take a dozen burgers, super well-done please…
  • Posted in News & Events | 1 Comment

    Weekly RoundUp: All Things Blackberry

    Blackberry Ice Cream

    Tart blackberries are often the last fruit picked out of the lineup, but this seasonal berry is striking and flavorful when mixed into crowd-pleasing summer desserts. From a batch of homemade jam to berry pavlova, these fruit-filled sweets collected from across the Web are bursting with juicy, ripe berries.

    Posted in From the Food Blogs | Tagged , , , |

    Image of the Week: Marinated Beet Salad

    Roasted Beets

    Brooklyn Supper’s Marinated Beet Salad is a bright way to enjoy the summer’s surplus of tender beets.  A refreshing and truly unbeatable side, this simple salad is bursting with flavor from sweet, juicy beets seasoned with fresh rosemary and dressed in a tangy apple cider vinaigrette.

    Posted in Image of the Week | Tagged , | 1 Comment

    Julia Child Centennial Celebration: Celery Root Remoulade, Provencal Tomatoes & Asparagus with Hollandaise

    Julia Child JC100

    The Julia Child Centennial celebration continues this week with a trio of Julia’s all-star vegetable recipes for Celery Root Remoulade, Provencal Tomatoes, and Asparagus with Hollandaise. Each recipe makes the most of summer’s freshest produce and could serve as meat-free meals or seasonal side dishes. Our sibling site Epicurious tackled the culinary challenge, cooking up all three recipes while making a few taste tweaks along the way.

    You, too, can join the celebration by becoming a part of the #JC100 party on Twitter (@JC100) and Facebook.

    Posted in News & Events | Tagged , |

    It’s National Hot Dog Month!

    Hot Dogs

    Photo: Romulo Yanes

    Summer means hot dogs. Whether you’re roasting weenies over a campfire, chowing down on a foot-long at the ball game, or cooking up franks on the grill, hot dogs seem to be ever-present at warm weather events. A plain frankfurter is a delicious treat, but with tasty toppings like mustard, relish, onions, ketchup, sauerkraut, pickles, hot peppers, chili, and cheese, it’s hard not to indulge.

    What’s your favorite hot dog topping?

    Posted in Reader Polls | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

    What Olympic Rower Kristin Hedstrom Eats For Energy

    Kristin Hedstrom

    Photo: Erik Dresser

    How many of us actually know an Olympic team member? I didn’t until recently, when a close high school buddy shared the mind-blowing news that her daughter, Kristin Hedstrom, had just made it to the Olympic team in the lightweight women’s double sculling (LW2X)!

    Imagine this: For the qualifying race, in Lucerne, Switzerland, on May 27, 2012, Hedstrom and her scullmate, Julie Nichols, came in fourth, a mere .09 seconds ahead of Great Britain, and there were only 4 seconds between first and sixth place!

    Hedstrom’s been in London since July 16, where I contacted her to find out what she eats to maintain the stamina needed for her intensive training. Compound the tremendous energy required with the need to stay below 125 pounds per person for the lightweight double scull, and there’s no room for empty-calorie junk foods. “I try to stick to whole foods and leave out overly processed foods, high fructose corn syrup, and stuff that doesn’t look like food to me (i.e. Twinkies),” wrote Kristin. Clearly, she’s read Michael Pollan’s Food Rules.

    Eating this way isn’t so easy. “My friends make fun of me because I make the ‘healthy’ (or healthier) version of things: that means less sugar, fat, refined/processed anything.” But First Lady Michelle Obamawould love it that Hedstrom considers it a good day when, “I can count the number of fruits I’ve eaten on two hands.” Hedstrom’s mother chuckles over the change from her daughter’s childhood eating habits. “She would pick off parsley flakes if they were sprinkled on her spaghetti and butter  in a restaurant,” said Peg Hedstrom. Continue reading

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    07.25.12: The London Olympics

    Gourmet Live: The London Olympics

    We’re gearing up for the Olympics with a roundup of the athletes idolized by famous chefs, London’s top international restaurants, and more in our London Olympics Issue.

    Download the free Gourmet Live app for access to all of the issues and recipes, and visit Gourmet.com to read this week’s issue in full, including:

    Posted in New on the Gourmet Live App | Tagged , | 1 Comment

    The Best Barbecue Chicken

    BBQ Chicken

    Photo: Kemp Minifie

    “Just wait until you try the chicken!” I was told several times by various people during a dreamy four-day high-end camping party hosted by dear friends at their ranch in northern New Mexico, where catch-and-release fly fishing and hiking are the daytime pastimes, while delicious feasts, with incredible wines and lively conversation, fill the evening hours. Barbecue chicken has become a tradition for the final meal and with good reason. It’s the best darn chicken I’ve ever had.

    The birds were not mopped with a gloppy barbecue sauce. No, these chickens were simply cooked in what the local caterer, Tori Hurd, who prepared every meal for sixteen people for the holiday, called a barbecuer. The contraption looked similar to a smoker grill I found online, but it was much larger. The barbecue cooker was custom-made in Texas for a co-owner of the ranch from a section of oil pipe—the steel pipe used in pipelines—and jury-rigged so that it looked like a giant enclosed barrel hoisted on legs, which allowed it to rest on its side. Cut into half of the top side was a door, giving access to the sliding rack inside. Two tall chimneys perched on top. It was an impressive piece of equipment.

    Because of Gourmet Live’s current issue on grilling, I grilled Hurd to find out exactly how she produced such marvelous birds.  “I stress out more about these chickens than anything else during these trips,” she admitted. No one would have known; she was the epitome of calm. Continue reading

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    Fourth Time’s a Charm on Hell’s Kitchen

    Hell's Kitchen

    Tonight I make my fourth appearance as a judge on Hell’s Kitchen. I am sworn to secrecy as to who wins the challenge, but you can read about my experience tomorrow on sister site Epicurious. Each time I’ve been on, I’m struck by how real this reality show is. I know almost nothing about the challenge going in, have no idea who the contestants are, and which episode we are filming. I am walking on with almost no information, which makes it as real as real can be. I have to make quick decisions based on what is on the plate. Each time I’ve guest judged the challenge has been different but one thing that is always the same is how extraordinarily polite, hospitable, and kind chef Ramsay is. That’s right. I’ve just called chef Ramsay kind. Maybe in the kitchen he is one way, but out of the kitchen, he is charming. Hope I’m not tarnishing your image, chef!

    Watch the show tonight at 8 p.m. on Fox, and then comment here, or tweet me at @gourmetlive or @tanyasteel, and let me know whether you think I made the right decision.

    Posted in News & Events | Tagged , | 2 Comments

    Food Blog of the Week: Lemon Fire Brigade

    Lemon Fire Brigade

    Name: Sarah Bolla
    Blog: Lemon Fire Brigade

    If you had to blog about one ingredient every day for a year, what food it be?
    I love to add acidity to just about everything I cook and prepare, so my use of lemon could go a long way on the site.

    What’s your go-to quick and easy dinner?
    My go-to dinner starts with perfectly cooked pasta dropped into a large sauté pan of freshly sliced garlic that has fried in a pool of good olive oil. It’s been given a pinch of red pepper flakes, and then tossed with a quickly sauteed green vegetable that holds both color and crunch. I ladle installments of pasta water into the pan to help the sauce emulsify and adhere to the pasta, check and adjust consistency and seasoning, add a squeeze of fresh lemon, and a grate of parmesan. I fall back on variations of this pasta from one week to the next. Continue reading

    Posted in From the Food Blogs | Tagged , | 2 Comments

    What We’re Cooking: Tuna-Inspired Summer Dishes

    Tuna Sandwich

    Tuna is a protein-packed way to add big flavor to salad, sandwiches, side dishes, and more. And I’ve been on the hunt for inventive ways to make the most of this healthy ingredient, beginning with Miso-Glazed Tuna Kebabs. Tender cubes of fresh tuna are served on skewers, making for finger-friendly snacking at summer barbecues. Next up is an Asian-inspired salad starring Grilled Tuna and Watercress. But no foray into fresh fish would be complete without a taste of the classic Nicoise Tuna Sandwich, which I’m wrapping up and enjoying al fresco at a picnic in the park.

    What are your favorite ways to enjoy tuna?

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    RIP, Marion Cunningham & Sylvia Woods

    Two Queens of Cuisine died this week, Marion Cunningham and Sylvia Woods. I was lucky to have met both ladies during my career, and they were equally charming, gracious, talented, and quietly ambitious.

    Marion Cunningham, known best as the author of The Fannie Farmer Cookbook, was instrumental in reviving home cooking in this country. The author of eight cookbooks, host of a cooking program, and a longtime columnist for  The San Francisco Chronicle, Cunningham came very late to her career, venturing out of her proscribed San Francisco Bay life only in her 50s. Indeed, her image is one of kindly grandmother, which fit so well with the Fannie Farmer image.  Yet, she influenced many generations of home cooks as well as top chefs, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who, in a recent Epicurious interview, cited her pancakes as one of his favorite things to make.

    Sylvia Woods also comfortably wore a grandmother halo. When she opened Sylvia’s in Harlem in 1962, the Harlem Renaissance had come and gone, and it was a depressed neighborhood with few restaurants. Sylvia became a waitress at a local luncheonette, and within a few years, had bought the place and transformed it into a beacon for the area. Her heart and soul were in every bowl of collard greens and smothered pork chops, and she brought joy, hospitality, and delicious food to the once blighted neighborhood. Today, her empire includes cookbooks, a burgeoning food product line, a catering arm, and a scholarship fund, and has fed the likes of President Obama and President Clinton, as well as food lovers from around the world.

    Sylvia and Marion, we hope you ladies are being served your favorite food dishes in heaven.

    Posted in News & Events | 2 Comments

    Weekly Roundup: All Things Tomato

    Cherry Tomatoes

    #TomatoLove is trending this month on Twitter, as large, luscious tomatoes are blooming all over. To celebrate this beloved fruit, we’re rounding up a variety of tomato-inspired recipes to enjoy all summer long.

    • For starters, try Naturally Ella’s Roasted Tomato and Corn Salsa (pictured above), which is made with cherry tomatoes, sweet corn, and cilantro.
    • Chef Margo has modified a Spanish staple to include fresh fruit in Grilled Peach and Tomato Gazpacho.
    • Oh Cake’s Spinach and Feta-Stuffed Tomatoes fills large, juicy tomatoes with spinach, Feta cheese, red onions, whole wheat breadcrumbs, and toasted pine nuts.
    • Raymond Blanc’s Summer Tomato Tart stars halved cherry tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and sliced black olives atop a buttery puff pastry crust.
    • Pasta and tomatoes are a tried and true pair, so enjoy Gimme Some Oven’s Pasta with Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, Garlic and Parmesan for a simple,well-seasoned pasta dish.
    • Bake Your Day spices things up with Mexican Veggie Flatbread, a cheesy combo of pepper-Jack cheese, fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, jalapeño peppers, black beans, green peppers, and cilantro, all loaded stop flatbread smothered with avocado spread.
    • The Breathing Kitchen’s Spring Bruschetta tops crunchy, toasted slices of bread with Fava beans, crushed tomatoes, and olive oil.
    Posted in From the Food Blogs | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

    Julia Child Centennial Celebration: Ratatouille

    Julia Child JC100

    The Julia Child Centennial celebration continues this week with Julia’s classic ratatouille, an eggplant casserole featuring layers of tomatoes, onions, peppers, and zucchini. While it’s composed of a few simple ingredients, Julia does warn in her Mastering the Art of French Cooking that “a really good ratatouille is not one of the quicker dishes to make, as each element is cooked separately before it is arranged in the casserole [dish].” The good news is that doing so guarantees each vegetable will retain its shape in the cooking process.

    Check out the blogs below for their take on this veggie-packed favorite, and don’t forget to join the #JC100 party on Twitter (@JC100) and Facebook.

    • Noshing with The Nolands discovers that even eggplant-haters will love Julia’s classic ratatouille.
    • BS In the Kitchen adds a crunchy bite by pairing the ratatouille with chopped peppers.
    • Baked by Rachel adds a personal twist to the dish by subbing tomato sauce for fresh tomatoes.
    • Epicurious shares a tried and tested technique for blanching tomatoes that are added to the dish.
    Posted in News & Events | Tagged , , |

    Escape The Heat: Wilt Your Vegetables, Not Yourself!

    wilted vegetable

    Photo: Kemp Minifie

    When I’m feeling wilted by the heat of the summer, how do I revive myself? Not by sweating it trying to cook in a hot kitchen. Instead, I make my vegetables do the wilting and turn them into salads. There’s no cooking involved in the process. Just salt.

    It’s the same principle behind coleslaw. Have you noticed how thinly sliced cabbage goes from stiff to limp when sprinkled with salt and allowed to sit in a bowl for a few minutes? Salt draws out water from the cabbage. But it doesn’t just happen to cabbage. You can apply the same trick to zucchini and yellow squash, cucumbers, carrots, and even beets.

    I like to use a mandoline to slice my vegetables into matchstick-thick strips. After tossing the strips with a little salt, they’ll soften into “noodles” after about 10 to 15 minutes. If you don’t have a mandoline though, you can achieve a similar effect by using a vegetable peeler to shave long pappardelle-like slices from those same vegetables. Continue reading

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    07.18.12: Fanning the Flames

    Gourmet Live: Fanning the Flames

    We’re all fired up about Steven Raichlen’s world tour of whole-animal BBQ, Modernist Cuisine‘s Maxime Bilet, and meat-free grillables in our Fanning the Flames Issue.

    Download the free Gourmet Live app for access to all of the issues and recipes, and visit Gourmet.com to read this week’s issue in full, including:

    Posted in New on the Gourmet Live App | Tagged , , |

    Image of the Week: Fig, Prosciutto, and Pear Salad

    Fig, Prosciutto and Pear Salad

    The Hungry Australian pairs sweet with savory in a Fig, Prosciutto, and Pear Salad that’s drizzled with a tangy balsamic vinaigrette. Enjoy this seasonal salad as the perfect side dish, or skip the entrée and make it your whole meal!

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